Gianfranco Ferre - A Success Story

Gianfranco Ferre - A Success Story
Gianfranco Ferre - A Success Story
Video: Gianfranco Ferre - A Success Story
Video: GIANFRANCO FERRÉ HOME - Interview with Livio Ballabio 2023, February

- How do you dress?

- Even in my way of dressing, I never allowed my role to destroy myself. I like to say that I dress "with Monsieur Ferré". I always preferred a strict style, but not so much as not to allow myself some eccentricity, fantasy and humor. I love striped suits and blue blazers paired with gray pants. I like the striped and checkered shirts with contrasting collars and cuffs. I think the main thing in my suit is the vest. In summer I prefer white and linen clothes. I also like the informal style of the weekend - jeans with a leather jacket or a blue pullover. Gianfranco Ferre is a success story.


His father dreamed that Gianfranco would become a pharmacist, his mother's sister, a "short" aunt, read him as a priest. But Ferré chose architecture and then fashion. His innate passion crossed out all the plans and conventions of this wealthy family, very committed to the Lombard bourgeois traditions.

At the age of 13, after the early death of his father, Gianfranco became the head of the family. The presence of this big and intelligent young man gave confidence, filled the house with joy and happiness because all together

In 1968, Ferré received his diploma in architecture, having successfully defended his thesis. After leaving the institute, Gianfranco, along with a group of friends, took up architecture. But friends even then understood that Ferret would not stop at this. With his dedication, scale of interests, talent …

In 1965-1970, a cheerful and creative atmosphere reigned in Milan, which opened the way for many young talents. It was then that many fashion designers and designers made a name for themselves. Milan gradually became a world center for design and fashion. There were sofa stars, jacket stars, sweater stars and even coffee makers. Behind him - like a stone wall. … In 1972, Ferré rented an apartment in Milan. At the same time, he signed a contract with a Genoese company producing the Courlande outerwear line and San Georgio raincoats. After the cloaks for San Giorgio, Ferré takes on Ketch. It was a clothing line that was edgy in style but sold at low prices. Such production could only be established in a country with cheap labor.

This is how India entered Ferre's life. In India, Ferre studied a variety of hand-made textile crafts, weaving techniques, all sewing cycles. At the end of 1975, Ferré returned home. And here, by the will of fate, the outstanding figure of Franco Mattioli, a talented entrepreneur who produces his own lines of clothing Bail and Dei Mattioli, appears.

And then one day someone called him the name Ferre and, moreover, brought him to Mattioli. From the very first meeting of Mattioli with Gianfranco - "Go, draw!".


ABOUT GIFTS "One beautiful Venetian lady at every show gives me a teddy bear. She believes that the bear symbolizes not only my appearance, but also my character. Now I have an uncountable number of these animals, of all colors and sizes. In Russia I was presented with a huge chocolate And one day my assistants gave me a hand-painted service for Christmas. What's so strange about it, you ask? Each plate depicted none other than me. And each drawing is a new caricature of me."

Ferre began working on the first collection for Bailby Ferre. After India, the image of my heroine begins to take shape in my head. New bourgeois urban style. So another woman was born - the woman Ferre. Next to the subtle, somewhat androgynous woman Armani, the daringly feminine woman of Versace, a regal, hieratic, aristocrat woman appears, incomparable in her sophisticated simplicity and true luxury. Mattioli on the first show: “It starts - and I'm blinded. Well, what kind of guy, I think. I have been making collections for ages, I was born among fabrics, grew up in a store, a hundred years in the industry. But I have dreamed of such a collection all my life! Before that she was beautiful, delightful. These clean lines … These colors … This "flowingness"!.. And in everything - his powerful, decisive hand, capable of creating a magical aura! ". White blouses,tall boots, unusual volumes - no one has seen this before …

Gone 1974,1975,1976,1977,1978 … Mattioli stood his ground, although things sold poorly. "Ferre was what I was not. Another part of me. I knew how to sell. But the genius of line, taste, class, atmosphere was Gianfranco. Only he knew how to breathe soul into things. I felt like an older brother, protecting a younger, very talented" … "You must not give in to the public," I told him, "She needs to be educated. You will see, Ferre, soon, very soon the public will run to you. It will crawl on its knees."


Mattioli was confident that Ferre would become one of the most famous fashion designers in the world. In 1978, Ferre and Mattioli decided to organize the Gianfranco Ferre company and in October present a new collection. There was no time to look for tissue. Fortunately, Mattioli had wonderful crepes. And Ferre did almost the same thing as Dior did in his time, who created his first collection after the war. Gianfranco took men's fabrics and made strict classic silhouettes, but with a spectacular "trick". We worked day and night … Pastel symphony of chalk white and beige tones.

ABOUT THE VESTS "An Italian newspaper recently asked how many vests I have. I calculated the exact figure - 98. In this regard, I am a conservative - I am in no hurry to throw away old clothes and prefer new clothes that I am used to."

Once again, a huge success with the press. But the most important thing is the response of the formidable publisher WWD: "Ferret is inimitable. This is the only Italian who understands what the art of tailoring is." So they passed the exam on all counts. Large orders were immediately received, then Europe and, finally, Italy began to buy.

Ferré was awarded his first Golden Eye in October 1982. Since then, there has not been a year that the artist has not received any prize or award. He has six Golden Eyes alone today. And in 1986, for services to the homeland, Ferre was promoted to Commander. When, back in 1984, Ferré was presenting his new collection in New York, an offer came from Paris to do ready-to-wear for the House of Dior.

A categorical refusal: "I'm doing my pret-a-porter, and that's enough for me." Two years later, the artist takes another step forward: "We will make Haute Couture." On July 22, 1986, Gianfranco Ferre made his debut at the AltMod show in Rome. To the sounds of Honky Tonky Woman at 9:30 am a strict, very feminine suit made of gray jersey appeared on the catwalk. And so on - 70 models, united in gray, diluted with white, then red, then dramatic black. Men's fabrics, embroidery, knitted sweaters entirely covered in rhinestone pavé, long gray jersey coats lined with squirrel, luxurious pullovers sliding on pleated skirts. Evening black dresses-sculptures and long dress-shirts made of broadtail … Russian sable adorns a short coat made of crocodile skin.


"A triumphant success," the journalists write. - "Gianfranco Ferre shook off mothballs from AltModa. - What is the secret of his success, apart from, of course, talent? In work, work and work, in endless trials and tests, searches and finds." Patience and perseverance There is nothing random about his collections. Everything is thought out by him, even the structure of the fabric. He is both a conservative and a provocative intruder.

Ferret's sophisticated games do not end with the search for new materials and fabrics. Ferré loves to mix "feminine" and "masculine", creating women's clothing. For Ferré, the most beautiful moment in work is always associated with the latest collection, and the most difficult comes when you have to start a new one.

Victory. Again. Again. Only the catwalk knows how many streams of tears Ferre shed, walking triumphant after the show! With an incorrect gait with excitement and joy, with a flushed face and shining eyes. A very touching, big and kind, strong person.

On May 8, 1989, the American newspaper WWD publishes unexpected news about the resignation of Mark Bohan: for several years now, screenings at the Dior House have been held in a half-empty hall. The name of a possible successor is heard louder and more urgently. The director of the House "Dior" begins to carefully test the waters and calls Ferre's cousin Rita Airaghi in Milan. Rita informs Gianfranco of this conversation. Ferre calmly replies: "Why not?"

- "Yes, why not?" - echoes him with enthusiasm the General Director of the House "Ferre" Franco Mattioli. - "After all, it has been four years since we ourselves have been making haute couture collections." "Dior" invites us to make collections for him. And we will do them!

On July 22, 1989, Ferré presented his first haute couture collection for Dior under the targeted fire of the press, eminent clients and guests from all over the world. Ninety-year-old Marguerite Carré, Dior's right hand, stunned by the beauty of the models and the loyalty to Dior's style, exclaimed: "Dior is back, I felt him come to life on this catwalk" France and members of the Ferret government was awarded the "Golden Thimble". Christian Dior received this award three times, but not once in forty years, not a single Italian, showing fashion in Paris, was honored with it.

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