We are so accustomed to the fact that haute couture is, first of all, art that we increasingly forget about it. Quite naturally, many of us are interested in simple questions: Who wears it? How much does it cost? What's in fashion? But, perhaps, it will be correct to consider the new Haute couture collections not so pragmatically, but to perceive them as works of art, architecture, sculpture or painting, considering every stroke and brushstroke, every shade and every line. Only twice a year, Paris takes out the "golden key" and opens the magical doors to the world of fashion art for admiring spectators. How is this fairy tale created, where it will lead us, how it so attracts millions of people.
The atmosphere that strikes the most in haute couture. For example, the atmosphere created by such names as John Galliano (Christian Dior), some nostalgia for the passing century, for the beautiful era of the beginning of the century, for its wealth, prosperity, for the style of tango, for the time when the woman was liberated, for the style of Paul Poiret, Art Deco, Bakst.
But fashion does not stand still, now there is a fashion for the English style, which has quite thoroughly established itself in France. It is associated with the fact that haute couture fashion should move towards theatricality, isolation from life, that this is not an industry, but an art form that may have practically no application in life, to a person. On the other hand, this trend has existed before, and today it is vividly continued in his work by John Galliano in the house of Dior. But, having come to the show of Givenchy House, which is headed by Alexander McQueen, it is no longer possible to declare that the British are united in their impulse to make theatrical clothes. The fact is that this young artist was given a clear task - to at least partially return the clients of the House, who, shortly after John Galliano came to Givenchy, went to Yves Saint Laurent.After all, about two seasons ago it was impossible to buy normal clothes - there were practically no clothes in Haute couture. And, despite the fact that his trip to Japan had a great influence on Alexander McQueen, he coped with the task set before him with dignity.
The fashion designer has developed not only highly artistic costumes in the oriental style, with extraordinary decorations, headdresses reminiscent of the weather, made of the thinnest plates of wood, or wings made of wood on the shoulders like fans, not only dresses with criminals and crinolines, for which we are probably already used to, but also very beautiful dress-suits that you can really wear. The only "otkutyur" feature in these thayer suits was the interesting sleeves cut from the crook of the elbow and extended towards the wrist. I would even say that this is not an association with an oriental theme, but with a Russian one, since Alexander McQueen visited us in Russia, where he saw the Russian tsarist clothes of the XIV-XV centuries with the same sleeves presented there. Therefore, if a few seasons ago the influence of the English style in fashion was great, today it is not entirely true.
Haute couture is not only hand sewing, embroidery, labor-intensive tattooing. Haute couture can be extraordinarily modern due to the simple unusual ideas that Jean Paul Gaultier offers, and it is these ideas that today set the way where haute couture can go. This art should not stand still, it should be constantly improved as painting and music.
For the same reason, the House of Chanel tries to show extremely simple solutions in its collections: jackets embroidered with bugles, skirts and jeans are all very modern. Such transformations are characteristic of the late 20th century. The most amazing thing is that in many Haute couture models you can also distinguish Russian trends.I would like to emphasize that in our clothing design, the Russian style, the Russian theme does not necessarily have to be expressed in the form of sundresses or kokoshniks, because these can be exceptional embroideries, which were high handmade art. Collections of Valentin Yudashkin are criticized and praised by many, but one cannot fail to notice the rapid success of this fashion designer in recent years. He really turned into a master, and every year he hones the edges of his talent, which is very difficult, since the Russian idea of hate couture has always been different.
If we take into account that Slava Zaitsev is a star in industrial fashion, then we can speak of Valentin Yudashkin as a pioneer in Russian haute couture. Such designers should be celebrated.
You may notice that many of the Haute couture models are eccentric, but at the same time, her eccentric and unusual pieces sell well. Some share of such an extraordinary fashion should be present. After all, it gives a new - new blood, a new current. The British in general have always brought a lot to fashion, starting with the founder of Haute couture, Frederick Worth, who was an Englishman by birth. I would not like to put the British in opposition to something or someone. It is important that each school has its own leader. Paris remains cosmopolitan and welcomes any fashion designer of any nationality. The main thing is that the artist is talented so that he can offer fresh ideas. The concentration of many bright talents makes Paris the center of culture, the capital of fashion. This city knows how to accumulate ideas. He never denies or denies anything,and this is a very valuable quality.
But it is difficult to see smartly dressed women in Paris. Yes, you can see older women, luxuriously dressed, but there are practically no young ones. So there are no visible changes in the cityscape. Revitalization is felt only in expensive and luxurious hotels, where all places are booked a month in advance. But even there you will not find dressed-up ladies in haute couture dresses. Perhaps the number of Haute couture clients is decreasing from our increasingly prosaic and too businesslike life. Balls, ceremonial events and significant evenings are taking place less and less in the world. But it is life that dictates how to dress.
But thanks to the wings, extraordinary hairstyles, make-up, hats, which are important in Haute couture as works of art, the models turn into princesses from Cinderellas for 40-50 minutes, and in life they dress, of course, easier, far from the way for such a solemn defile. Claudia Schifer said in an interview that she only has one haute couture dress, which she wore only once, and now it hangs in her wardrobe. Therefore, first of all, Haute couture is an art.
Based on materials from NRG magazine