Paris Haute Couture Week. Schiaparelli Couture. Spring-summer

Paris Haute Couture Week. Schiaparelli Couture. Spring-summer
Paris Haute Couture Week. Schiaparelli Couture. Spring-summer
Video: Paris Haute Couture Week. Schiaparelli Couture. Spring-summer
Video: SCHIAPARELLI Full Show Spring Summer 2015 Haute Couture Paris by Fashion Channel 2023, February
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The departure of Marco Zanini did not have the best effect on Schiaparelli. You may not share the opinion of Suzy Mankes that a man cannot run the house of a great woman, or agree with him, but to deny the weakness of spring 2015 from Schiaparelli Couture is simply stupid. Against the backdrop of a fantastic fall collection, all these things lack drive. The show is not saved either by an attempt to turn back to the old aesthetics laid down by ElsSchiaparelli, as it was in summer clothes from Zanini, or sophisticated and wonderful hats, or the appearance on the stage of a copy of the Incredible Skaparelli, embodied in the image of each model. This is not a bad collection, not at all. There is simply too much of it missing.

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In spring and summer 2015 from Schiaparelli Couture there is too much and no Elsa at the same time. Her things that have become iconic, hairstyles, makeup features and extravagant details are easily recognizable, but they are all so scattered, collected, as if in a hurry, that they seem alien to each other, devoid of meaning. A crown with stars and a dress with colored stripes, gorgeous on their own, do not create a single ensemble. Open black sandals do not go to green satin, and you involuntarily want to replace the wide mantle with a large brooch of the same ornament. In a bronze jacket with a train one can feel more from the 90s than from the 40s … And so for each of the 20 presented models - somewhere too much has been done, somewhere, on the contrary, not enough. The result is like a failed seance every time.

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Whoever the new creative head of Schiaparelli is, he should appear as soon as possible, saving the design team from the torture of table-turning and intimate conversations with a medium. The wonderful last ingredient that is so desperately lacking in the house's new couture collection is one guide. Of course, there is a chance that the ready-to-wear collection for fall 2015 will be more successful than Schiaparelli Couture, but it is less and less credible.

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