Alexander Khilkevich On The Prospects Of The Russian Fashion Industry

Alexander Khilkevich On The Prospects Of The Russian Fashion Industry
Alexander Khilkevich On The Prospects Of The Russian Fashion Industry
Video: Alexander Khilkevich On The Prospects Of The Russian Fashion Industry
Video: NEW RUSSIAN FASHION IN FILM - Viva Vox 2023, February

International competition "Tochka RU", which the Russian State University. Kosygina traditionally spends in Gostiny Dvor, has completed his work. Renowned fashion analyst, fashion guru Alexander Khilkevich shares his impressions of this and other shows by young designers that took place as part of Moscow Fashion Weeks.

Alexander Khilkevich: The "Tochka RU" competition, held twice a year, now occupies a leading position in our country. This is a promising and necessary project with an interesting line-up of participants. He vividly demonstrated the arrival of a new generation of designers on the fashionable Russian catwalk - with their pros and cons.

I presented the Grand Prix with the rector of the Russian State University Valery Belgorodsky to the Muscovite Katerina Bezverkhoi for the creative, color collection "I am an artist, I see it this way" (advice to everyone: learn to work with color!). Now she will have a month-long internship in Italy. Also among the winners: Alexey Volegov (Kosygin Russian State University) - 3rd place, Sabina Izyatova (Razumovsky Moscow State University of Technology) - 2nd place, Ayumi Kabayashi (Sugino Fashion Academy, Japan) - 1st place.

Viewing the collections on "Tochka RU", as well as other collective and individual shows of young talents in the framework of the past fashion weeks, revealed their main problem - the absence of those very fashion lines, the creation of which is the main professional task of the designer.

Without the discipline of lines, there is no clear silhouette, no harmonious proportions, no aesthetics of form. And this is not so much a mistake of young designers, it is primarily a minus of teaching. Both in Russian universities and in foreign design schools, the current training programs are about everything and nothing. Behind the husk of pseudo-clever words, the object itself and the essence of the profession they teach have disappeared. They stamp stylists or imitators, but not designers - people who think independently, unconventionally, looking to the future, capable of generating new ideas and competently translating them into a real product or project.

Those who say that it is not necessary for a designer to master classical construction is mistaken. Employers, buyers and clients are unlikely to agree with them. Of course, in the very near future, a robot will become the main designer, marketer, manufacturer and seller in the fashion industry. But this only applies to the mass market.

In the creative fashion sector, the value of visionary designers with skills in modeling, construction, a sense of the material, knowledge of processing technology, the basics of tailoring, handicraft decoration, who understand the importance of the quality of the fit of the product will only increase.

It is in this creative, busy, by no means cheap segment, which considers fashion as an art, requiring talent, knowledge and patience, that Russian designers can be not only competitive, but also set the tone in the international arena. It is these projects that the state needs to promote, supporting their participation in international exhibitions, fashion shows, facilitating export conditions.

As for the inexpensive mass market, stamping the same type of assortment under a carbon copy, Russian brands have no future here. In 5-10 years, this niche will be completely absorbed by H&M, Zara, AliExpress and others like them.

Accordingly, designers need to be trained with this perspective in mind. A superficial approach is unacceptable here. Voiced chatter on short-term intensives, which are actively encouraged by fashion schools with beautiful names, will definitely not give this knowledge. But even years in universities, as I said, do not guarantee results if there are no modern methods. And few have them. Only a few professionals can give birth to such programs, and we are losing them (taking into account the critical situation in which domestic design universities find themselves as a result of the reforms of recent years). We need a center that will unite them, become an open platform for experiments, meetings, exchange of experience, advanced training of teachers, students and specialists not only in the fashion industry, but also in other areas of design.

Today there is only one place that can cope with this mission - the RSU im. Kosygin. Its technical base is already one of the best not only in our country, but also in the world. The only thing left to do was to ventilate the premises, filling the university with fresh ideas and the energy of creativity.

Photo - Vikto Boyko, Dmitry Babushkin

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