Shows of the next Fashion Week in Gostiny Dvor have ended in Moscow. International fashion analyst Alexander Khilkevich sums up its results.
As the expert notes, this time the Week passed without loud fanfare, the hall of the Gostiny Dvor was decorated without the previous brilliance, but, fortunately, the newly-minted economy format did not affect the quality of the organization of the work of the podiums - neither the light nor the sound failed.
More than 40 shows were presented during Fashion Week, but most of them cannot be considered particularly outstanding. Only 5 designer brands - Valentin Yudashkin, VictoriAndreyanova, EricZaionts, Vemina, Daniil Landar showed collections in which the balance between design and commerce, creativity and comfort was successfully observed.
The rest of the participants should pay close attention to the choice of fabrics, learn to work with color, understand what the assortment matrix is, and most importantly, clearly and clearly answer the question for whom and why they make their collections.
In this regard, Alexander Khilkevich advises to turn to the show of the French from LRedoute - their collection, demonstrated during the Week, clearly proved that even absolutely unpretentious sets can look fresh, attractive and stylish if they are developed by professionals who clearly understand the needs of their target audience. …
What did Russian designers - participants of the Week, which is marked with the slogan "Made in Russia", offer their clients? We read press releases for their collections, which tell about Britain, Alaska, Africa, the French circus and the femme fatale style - topics as surprising as they are ridiculous. This is the answer why these collections in the end look so provincial flawed - because their authors are cut off from their roots, do not know and are not interested in their history and culture, exist outside the modern context and time.
Another mistake, which was also very clearly noticeable, is a superficial approach to the interpretation of sources of inspiration, when the designer gives the chosen theme head-on, without subtle artistic processing. If the collection is made "about the war" - so on the podium everyone is in greatcoats; if “about daring youth”, then you will definitely see the words “Fucking girl” on the T-shirts; and if the collection is "about luxury" - then here, both adults and children have tight bouclés, multilayer tulle skirts and, of course, crowns.
A positive moment of the Week, Alexander Khilkevich calls the competition of young fashion designers "Tochka RU", which is held under the patronage of the Russian State University. A. N. Kosygin. Although its participants made many mistakes, be that as it may, today the potential of this competition allows it in the very near future to take a leading position in the country in the field of presentation and promotion of young professionals in design, fashion and style.
As the expert notes, education is exactly the direction on the support of which all structures (private and state), associated with the organization and holding of Fashion Weeks in Russia, should focus today. Because without training specialists, supporting talented teachers, strengthening the scientific and material and technical base of universities, it is impossible to seriously talk about the development of Russian design, modern production, and even more so about going abroad and exporting domestic fashion.