The XIV International Festival of Fashion, Design and Crafts "Provincial Style" was held in Voronezh. This year the cultural and educational forum was attended by about 600 participants. Novice designers from 29 regions of Russia (Chita, Irkutsk, Krasnoyarsk, Kemerovo, Omsk, Orenburg, Yekaterinburg, Vologda and other cities), as well as from China, Belarus, Donetsk Republic and Italy came to show their ideas. A hundred collections were presented to the jury, which was once again headed by the patriarch of fashion, president of NAIM, full member of the Russian Academy of Arts, People's Artist of Russia, Doctor of Arts, professor, laureate of State Prizes of Russia, prizes of the President and Government of Russia Vyacheslav Zaitsev.
IF YOU DIDN'T GO TO THE "PROVINCE STYLE", IT WILL COME FOR YOU
This year the festival was held under the motto "Fashion and Tourism".
“In addition to the fact that Gubernsky Style is actively involved in the import substitution system in the domestic fashion industry, we support the initiatives of the Russian government for the development of domestic and inbound tourism,” said Nikolai Sapelkin, producer of the festival, academician of the National Academy of the Fashion Industry. - The numbers speak for themselves: over the past years, the festival has been attended by more than 7,000 tourists (participants and guests) from almost all regions of Russia and 13 countries. This season, 100 collections came to the festival, including from China and Italy, and not only from neighboring Belarus. Unfortunately, fewer Donetsk designers have arrived due to objective reasons: the building of the Donetsk Fashion Institute was damaged by the bombing, so classes are temporarily not held there. In general, this season's statistics: 200 people - designers with support groups, plus almost a hundred models,more make-up artists, hairdressers, 15 children's groups participating in the Performance and Debut nominations (which is 10-15 people each, which means another two hundred), plus organizers, directors and spectators. A total of 600 people.
- We understand that during a crisis it is difficult to travel, even to get from one end of our vast country to the other. But we found a way to stimulate and attract attention: we ourselves travel to the regions. For example, we recently visited Baikal, talked about the advantages of the Gubernsky Style festival, and invited designers. Unfortunately, due to the difficulties of the flight, we lost this year participants from Vladivostok and Blagoveshchensk, but we hope that next year they will visit us, - added Ekaterina Rebezha, President of the Gubernsky Style festival, academician of the National Academy of the Fashion Industry (Kursk) … - And thus, we collect talents from all regions of the country.
DO STREETWEAR AND LOOK FOR A SPONSOR
The topic of import substitution was supported by Olga Chashnikova, vice president of the Union of Industrialists and Entrepreneurs of the Vologda Region, member of the Public Chamber of VO, academician of NAIM and director of the Voltri company (Vologda), which produces linen clothes.
- We have been working with Vologda flax for almost 40 years, have established the production of fashionable, beautiful clothes from it. And he will try to hold on to the last, because, unfortunately, the production of flax itself is declining. We will then switch to raw materials from other regions,”Olga Chashnikova reassured. - Because these are our roots, you find some tricks - absolutely amazing things turn out. And it helps to overcome all difficulties.
The topic of the crisis became one of the topics of discussion at the press conference, which brought together the professionals of the fashion industry. Indeed, the economic pit has created serious problems for aspiring designers who do not initially have the big finances needed to produce decent collections. Nevertheless, Vyacheslav Zaitsev urges young colleagues not to despair and not to sell ideas abroad, but to try to integrate into the fashion system.
- Do not rush to part with ideas, they are needed by yourself. Try to save money or look for sponsors, the master advises. - True, now it's too hard with sponsors, the crisis hit them too. Therefore, you need to learn to make money yourself. The realities are such that fashion has moved from the category of art to the category of business. Therefore, the artist must have a commercial streak, otherwise he simply cannot survive.
- Russia is rich in talents. And there is no need to rush to part with your developments, sell them, but you need to strive to find money, partners and implement your ideas yourself,”Nikolai Sapelkin supported.
Representative of the Italian fashion industry Tatiana Genkina (organizer of the "Rome Fashion Week" / RomFashion Week, founder of the Fashion Academy, head of the agency RICorganizzazione eventi) shared her experience of the most fashionable country in the world.
- Now in Italy, more attention is paid to commercial collections, streetwear - something that can actually be worn, and not just admired on the catwalk. Italian designers are switching to small, family-owned businesses. Even the pillars of haute couture are now looking more and more in the direction of streetwear, and young designers are only focused on this. Therefore, I advise novice Russian fashion designers to also rely on casual street style clothes. And you need to look for a "golden mean" - to be both a creator and a merchant. We need to look for a niche - between pure business and pure creativity. Then success awaits you.
“The Gubernskiy Style Festival provides a unique opportunity to see, to be saturated with ideas, to learn from others - this is, first of all, an experience that is also important for young people. This is necessary in order to develop further, - says Victoria Maltseva, head of the Department of Design and Folk Artistic Culture at Yelets Bunin University.
CREATE YOUR OWN PRINT FABRICS - ALWAYS EXCLUSIVE
Of course, a natural question arises as to how Russian designers can compete with Western ones (where fashion traditionally has a more advantageous position in terms of experience, technology, and infrastructure).
- Our designers are now selling well in the West, take Ulyana Sergienko, for example, and they are not much different from their foreign colleagues in terms of creating collections. The only difference and advantage of ours is spirituality, - Vyacheslav Zaitsev is sure. - Models of Russian designers are still the work of real artists. Especially in terms of the use of fabric. For example, in my collections I use domestic materials, in particular, Pavlovo Posad shawls. They are very popular. They make amazingly beautiful things, very stylish, modern and very Russian - dresses, suits, and coats. This is the highlight.
National identity and originality are good, but Zaitsev considers relying purely on traditional folklore as the most common mistake of fashion designers.
- Now I'm working on a new collection: I take Russian themes and Dior's new look as an idea. And it turns out to be very folk, Russian, it preserves our spirit, despite the fact that other people's fabrics are used (in this case, Indian fabrics for sari). This is important, because there are artists who try to make Russian themes, but they take pure folklore as a basis, as a result, they get too cloyingly folk things to the contrary. What for? Everyone is tired of such folklore. And you can't imagine better than national costumes, - Vyacheslav Mikhailovich is sure. - Therefore, I think it is better to make a modern reading and focus on daytime business clothes, because a modern person spends most of his time on the street or at work. This means that clothes should be comfortable and simple in shape, but expressive in fabric. Especially,that now the artist can create his own drawing and release fabrics with personal prints. And the collection will have its own unique style.
EXIT THE SHADOW
And one more important aspect in a designer's career is the opportunity to find a job. Of course, "Gubernsky Style" is a good social lift for young creators, it helps to grow professionally. But every year more than 100 fashion designers participate in the competition - what happens to them next, where can they apply their creative powers?
- We conduct an annual monitoring of our graduates-designers, and almost all of them were employed in their specialty. Those who create their own firms, a rare exception, is engaged in graphic design. But almost everyone works in their native region, - said Victoria Maltseva (representative of Yelets University). - Some leave for Moscow and St. Petersburg to pursue a career. Recently, our guys underwent an internship at Alena Akhmadulina's studio.
“Of course, it's hard for young people to break into business,” said Sergei Kurdyumov, director of the Tula College of Professional Service Technologies, organizer of the “Provincial Style in Tula” festival. - But it just so happens that those who intend to stay in the profession come to us to study. As a result, most of them find jobs in commercial firms, while others start their own business. Our graduates have almost one hundred percent employment in their specialty.
- According to our data, more than 80% of fashion designers who have attended the "Provincial style" remain in the profession. We have 1300 active designers in our database. Unfortunately, most of them work in "gray" schemes. We have to admit that so far these are the trends in the development of the fashion business, - said the producer of the festival Nikolai Sapelkin. - I hope this problem will be solved someday and the creators will come out of the shadows. They are ready to work. Designers dream of having their own Fashion Week in Voronezh, where they could show their ideas.
FINAL OF "GUBERN STYLE-2017" CAN BE PASSED IN TULA KREMLIN
So, "Provincial Style-2016" has become history. But the organizers of the forum are already maturing ideas for a new season. There is a proposal next year to go on tour for the festival - they offer to hold the final defile of 2017 in the Tula Kremlin.
- The festival can expand, change, travel around the country. We are open to new ideas and fresh blood. The main thing that we guarantee is that we will preserve the cultural and fashionable values that have shaped the face of the "Provincial Style"! - summed up the producer of "GS" Nikolay Sapelkin.
The Gubernsky Style Festival is supported by the National Academy of the Fashion Industry and Soyuzlegprom. Traditionally, the program of the forum includes not only business, educational and competitive programs (in seven nominations), but also exhibitions - handicrafts, with tourist souvenirs, and fashion illustrations. The winner of the "Gubernsky Style" receives an internship at the Vyacheslav Zaitsev Fashion House, is nominated for the National Award in the field of the Russian fashion industry. The winners of the first, second and third prizes of the forum are sent to Italy to attend Romafashionweek, Russian Silhouette, St. Petersburg competitions "Admiralty Needle" and "Generation Next".