On May 15-17, Voronezh hosted the XIII International Festival of Design, Fashion and Crafts "Provincial Style", the jury of which was traditionally headed by the President of the National Academy of the Fashion Industry, full member of the Russian Academy of Arts, People's Artist of Russia, laureate of the State Prize, prizes of the President and the Government of Russia Vyacheslav Zaitsev.
At the opening of the forum, the president of the festival, academician of NAIM Ekaterina Rebezha noted that despite difficult economic times, the festival is expanding its boundaries: this year 190 designers from 39 cities came to the competition - from all over Russia, including Vladivostok, as well as from Belarus, China and even Donetsk. We brought 126 collections!
“We are glad that“Gubernskiy Style”really helps to promote young designers in life: we see their projects on TV, in glossy magazines, they head design departments at enterprises,” Rebezha said. This year, we traditionally nominate the main winner of the competition for the Golden Spindle National Fashion Industry Prize, and nominations for participation in the prestigious Russian Silhouette and Admiralty Needle contests.
The organizers of the competition noted the heroism of Donetsk designers, who, despite the difficult political and economic situation in the republic, were able to come to the forum.
- We have a difficult life, but it did not stop! Women are returning (and many have not left), we create new collections. We brought four works to the festival. Wartime, of course, has an effect, it is difficult with fabrics, you have to use camouflage! Wartime leaves an imprint on the shape of the suit - a lot of freedom, - said the head of the Donetsk Institute for Design and Modeling of Clothes Svetlana Khristenko.
By the way, “Provincial Style” decided to support Donetsk colleagues in the future: the start of the new XIV festival will be given in the fall at a design competition in Donetsk.
At the press conference, they touched upon the cooperation of the forum with China. Professor Ye Hongguang, director of the Center for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage of Chinese Costume in Hubei Province (Wuhan, China), came to the competition in Voronezh. He explained his interest by the fact that in Russia now fashion is developing rapidly, but the possibilities in terms of production are better in the Celestial Empire. In addition, the Chinese can share their experience of processing creative heritage for modern trends, an example of respect for tradition.
“Global design has penetrated all countries, but the Chinese government believes it should have a national face,” explained Ye Hongguang. “Therefore, we pay attention to how to transform folk traditions into modern design. Employees of the Center for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage of Chinese Costume in Hubei Province travel to remote mountain villages, looking for elderly craftsmen who have preserved original embroidery motifs and order them to decorate their collections. Complex folk ornaments form the basis of prints for industrially produced clothes - in China, new items are instantly replicated on a huge scale. Preserving what is, not letting the national roots disappear - we put this at the forefront. Modern innovations are used in terms of printing or laser cutting fabrics.
- If Chinese come to Voronezh for the festival - it's cool! So you have a secret, a zest! So the festival can feed the country! - sure the jury member of the competition Yegor Zaitsev, creative director of YeZ = YEGORZAITSEV, artistic director of the SLAVZAITSEV model agency. “Now China is instantly absorbing ideas, reworking them for global fashion. Young fashion designers can be proud that their chips will appear somewhere in Parisian collections in six months.
This year I chose "Wear Russian!" As my motto "Provincial Style" - this is how the forum supports the initiative of the Russian government on import substitution and development of the domestic fashion industry.
- The political situation now is such that we stand against the whole world. Today everything is Russian and frightens and beckons. But the Russian style will take its toll. Soon the world is expecting a new round of a la russe. You just need to show the Russian style with your face! Therefore, everyone now - both the government and financial tycoons and consumers - needs to look closely at young designers who translate Russian motives into fashion, and support them! - Yegor Zaitsev thinks.
He was supported by a longtime "Russian style singer" who has been promoting him for more than half a century, Vyacheslav Zaitsev. He told how, on the way to the podium of the competition, he noticed a scarf with nesting dolls in the window of one of the shops - it turned out, it was made in Italy! Zaitsev stressed that the Russian style will always be the object of close attention of designers.
- Now fashion is in decline. There are many directions, it is difficult for an ordinary person to understand. The Russian style is more pronounced and clear. This is the joy of life, the multi-layered nature, the riot of colors of Russian landscapes - from this beauty and abundance of ideas you make a fool! - admired the patriarch of fashion. - Today, there is a great interest in fabrics, digital printing provides tremendous opportunities - make whatever prints you want. In Pavlovsky Posad there is an installation where you can print a fragment of a costume or even a whole costume based on historical motives. Therefore, you need to feel the Russian spirit, you should not get carried away with simple copying of sundresses. Today you can transform folk motives into thousands of ideas without getting hung up on souls and nesting dolls.
The journalists were interested in whether Zaitsev uses the services of international agencies that predict trends
- Such agencies exist, they employ a thousand fashion spies who collect baubles, nuances, zest in different countries - on the streets, in clubs. This is a scientifically based forecast, very expensive information. Many people use the services of trendsetters, for example, Dmitry Loginov Kirill Gasilin, Vika Gazinskaya, - Yegor Zaitsev is sure. - But these are purely commercial brands. In famous fashion houses, distinctive artists come up with their own ideas. It would be funny if Galliano used the lookbook. This is a step back! In fact, the trend transforms, translates the ideas of many great couturiers. Those who sell commercial collections naturally take the lookbook as their basis. Great masters of high art nourish them. In order for an artist to create fashion himself, one must know the basics, the theory of colors, the harmony of proportions and develop oneself.Our school has always been famous for this, but you need to know a lot.
- I never use the services of trendsetters. On the contrary, after the release of the next collection, I see that in two years my ideas appear in Italy, - emphasized Vyacheslav Mikhailovich.
- Zaitsev is a trendsetter himself! At first everyone looks askance at the one who creates trends, then he becomes a classic, then - a god, - Yegor Zaitsev joked. - But naturally, the number of designers that we have recently cannot create trends themselves, especially when the so-called Rublev's wives are engaged in fashion. Their projects are immediately visible! This can be compared to a rubber woman: it seems that everything is there, but something is a little wrong.
Young fashion designers were interested in whether a designer needs a marketing vein?
- At one time, Vyacheslav Mikhailovich did everything on a whim. He created a fashion theater, then a model agency, a design laboratory. After all, shows are also some kind of marketing tools in the promotion of collections. Now Vyacheslav Mikhailovich photographs, the frames form the basis of prints for fabrics, umbrellas, bed linen. His photos are also used to design a preview video, - admitted Yegor Zaitsev. - Karl Lagerfeld is also a man-orchestra. Creates collections, takes photographs, works as a stylist. But this is rare. Now commercial projects in the field of fashion are created immediately with the participation of a marketer who promotes the project to the market. If a designer has such a vein, great. Otherwise, you need to learn how to sell yourself.
At the end of the press conference, those present only complained that it was impossible to open Zaitsev's schools in the regions - unfortunately, the master cannot be cloned!
The Gubernsky Style Festival is traditionally held under the program of the National Academy of Fashion Industry and the Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of Textile and Light Industry.
Tatiana PODYABLONSKAYA, specially for Intermoda.ru
Photo - Dima Babushkin