The world of luxury is not slowing down the pace of development. In 2004, US sales of exclusive women's accessories grew 25% to $ 4 billion. Analysts explain such high rates by the blurring of boundaries between the caste of the “chosen ones”, to which luxury brands have been oriented from time immemorial, and mass buyers. Anyone can comprehend the new luxury philosophy. It's harder to accept her rules of the game. The Whole Truth About Brand Spraying Everything is mixed up in the best fashion houses. And the reason for this is the last - a landmark - the trend of the fashion world. The most coveted and exclusive luxury brands are rapidly losing their uniqueness and value. To the delight of the mass consumer and to the great sadness of the "powerful of this world", who are accustomed to pay not so much for quality as for "talking" and hard-to-reach labels.Karl Lagerfeld's best collections are sold well in the inexpensive retail chain H&M, fashion designers (like Isaac Mizrahi) do not shy away from orders from stores selling consumer goods (like Target). Unique Damiani, Longines, Korloff and Vertu are losing the status of an unattainable dream, and collections from Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermes are confidently entering the daily lifestyle of the mass consumer. Against this background, confessions of the “chosen ones” are heard more and more often, like those shared by Evgenia Linovich, co-owner of the SpPalestr & Corpus Art salon and a big fan of Dolce & Gabbana: “In Moscow, you come somewhere, and there are four people in the same outfits …”. What is to be done, one asks? How do you stand out? Perhaps only the couturiers themselves can sympathize. In order to keep afloat and not drown in the waters of Lethe,well-known fashion houses are often forced to tighten the noose around their necks with their own hands - to further increase sales with low profit margins. One of the first to make such a mistake was the Gucci house, entering the more accessible mass market in the early 70s. It was only thanks to a tough decision and a return to the high-price segment that Gucci managed to regain his former reputation in the 90s, thereby eliminating the consequences of over-licensing his name. Today, one can count on one hand the design companies that have not fallen into this trap and have not lost their unique status.It was only thanks to a tough decision and a return to the high-price segment that Gucci managed to regain his former reputation in the 90s, thereby eliminating the consequences of over-licensing his name. Today, one can count on one hand the design companies that have not fallen into this trap and have not lost their unique status.It was only thanks to a tough decision and a return to the high-price segment that Gucci managed to regain his former reputation in the 90s, thereby eliminating the consequences of over-licensing his name. Today, one can count on one hand the design companies that have not fallen into this trap and have not lost their unique status.
The democratization of luxury has demanded the most decisive actions from the most famous players in the fashion industry. So, Armani was one of the first to create an extensive network of brands - Giorgio Armani, Armani Collezioni, Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans and Armani Junior. Each line meets the needs of a specific audience, which allows the company, without losing an elite clientele, not to miss a tidbit of the lucrative consumer goods market (consumer goods + prestige). Practice shows that the growing role of luxury items in the life of the mass consumer and a new look at luxury opens up good horizons for those who will be able to orient themselves and adjust in time.
We will support domestic copies A natural part of the new trend of "devaluation" of brands has become a change in the attitude of the client audience to shopping as is. Along with iconic products, clients who previously could not afford luxury items get used to buying the appropriate atmosphere, quality, and a new status. The elite, in turn, expects from designers not only mega-unique limited editions, but also the corresponding behind-the-scenes and inimitable boutiques. Designers - shake their heads and draw appropriate conclusions.
In order to buy a fashionable thing, you do not need, as before, to go to Rue de Saint-Honoré, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive. Stylish salons and luxury boutiques are regularly opened in local and international shopping centers around the world. The domestic market, of course, was no exception. Is it worth listing the big names and world-famous brands that have become available to Russian connoisseurs at home? Perhaps one example will be enough: at the end of 2005, Montblanc and Pal Zileri boutiques were opened in the capital almost simultaneously, and each of them became the largest brand showroom in all of Europe.
The owners of fashionable retail outlets in Russia note that the format of the salon and the entourage accompanying shopping is almost the only way today to stand out from others and be remembered by "your" client. “Everyone is tired of cold stores, where the emphasis is solely on clothes,” says the main buyer of the Podium group, Lidia Aleksandrova. "We want to give the buyer a sense of luxury." Under this motto, in 2005 in the very center of Moscow, on Kuznetsky Most, a multi-brand Podium Concept Store was opened. In the building of the Soviet Model House, the new owners decided to preserve the unique decoration and add details in the appropriate style. As a result, Podium struck the first visitors with its painted ceilings, marble staircases, columns, bronze mirrors, expensive carpets and Murano glass chandeliers. Agreepurchases in such a store take on a slightly different character. If you can't surprise the residents of the capital with expensive brands, then aesthetic pleasure as a bonus to purchases is a bright move.
Reacted to the excitement around luxury brands and salons positioning themselves more democratically. “We are seeing how the purchasing power and interest in bright, stylish and fashionable brands grow in parallel,” notes Alla Karpova-Rosenberg, Marketing and Sales Director of Econika-Obuv. - In response to this, many chains and salons began to offer limited collections, someone seeks to "bribe" with the design of the sales area. We decided on a full-scale rebranding that included both of these elements. " Econika offered a new shopping format for the domestic market - a cassette (an analogue of style-forming European boutiques, where fashionable clothes and accessories are sold at affordable prices, but the interior of the salons, the quality of service and the goods themselves are not inferior to elite stores).
The cascade is another example of how easily and often successfully Western ideas and ideals are copied and taken root on Russian soil. After that, is it any wonder that luxury mania has infected domestic connoisseurs of the fashion industry as well? Is it any wonder that many beau monde stars refuse traditional shopping tours to the capitals of world fashion and opt for shopping in the capital's boutiques and shops? Anastasia Myskina, in particular, does not hide the fact that, despite constant trips abroad, she loves to buy clothes, shoes and accessories in Moscow. As they say, and if there is no difference …