Men's Corset: History Or Reality?

Men's Corset: History Or Reality?
Men's Corset: History Or Reality?
Video: Men's Corset: History Or Reality?
Video: How Victorian Men Taught Us to Hate Corsets: The Biggest Lie in Fashion History 2023, February
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Dmitry Babushkin's report on the show of a collection of corsets from designer Nadezhda Ruban made me think about the fate of a men's corset.

As my LJ friend, lgattciara, writes in her post “Woman in a man's suit. Corset ":" We are used to thinking of a corset as a purely female garment. Meanwhile, for almost a century, it has firmly entered the men's wardrobe, and some designers, with enviable persistence, continue to produce men's corsets today.

Just at the time when women freed themselves from the corset for a short period of time, the dandies of the Regency (1811-1820), on the contrary, began to tighten their waists in corsets to aspen thinness. For overweight men, a corset was the only way to look more or less slender. As the famous corset designer Mr. Pearl said in his interview: “That today a corset is considered extravagant and feminine - I do not agree with that. The corset was part of the 19th century dandy culture. Then the following men wore a corset to make the shoulders appear wider in comparison with the waist. Plus, how else to get slim? After all, a sweating dandy with dumbbells is unimaginable. In general, a sweating dandy is unimaginable!"

There is a version that we owe the appearance of the male corset to George IV. During his reign, fashion was dictated by the regent's friend, the first dandy in the history of fashion, George Brummell, who often repeated: "In the 19th century there are three great men - Napoleon, Byron and me." They say he washed his boots with champagne and took milk baths. In fact, he was the first man in the 18th century to promote personal hygiene, the lack of a wig, and calm textures and colors in men's clothing. After the long reign of Rococo, it was revolutionary …

In the 1830s - 1840s, the male silhouette, incredibly similar to the female, became fashionable. The frock coats of those years are too reminiscent of women's dresses in their hourglass shape … To achieve this goal, it was necessary to tighten the waist in a corset, as Eugene Onegin did in M. Fiennes's film Onegin. Many European officers, especially cavalrymen, wore corsets in the 19th century. They said that it is more comfortable to be in the saddle in them, since the spine has a rigid support …

And at the beginning of the twentieth century, men's corsets did not go out of use. Remember how B. Akunin's "Azazel": Xavier Feofilaktovich reads an ad: "The newest American corset" Lord Byron "from the strongest whalebone for men who want to be slim. Waist an inch, shoulders a fathom! " …

It seems clear about the 19th and early 20th centuries. And what about today, you think, men do not wear corsets? So no, they wear it, and how! The Internet has surprised me with a lot of modern men's corsets. The most famous character is the corset designer Mr. Pearl. He designs corsets for leading fashion houses such as Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood and many others, as well as for some pop and film stars.

But he is known not only for this, but for the fact that he himself wears a corset! Mark Pullin (this is Mr. Pearl's real name) started wearing a corset at the age of 30 after seeing a photo of Fakir Musafar …

In addition to Mr. Pearl, Dolce-Gabbana was not indifferent to men's corsets. A whole collection of DG men's corsets is kept in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. John Galliano also made an attempt to bring corsets into fashion. Of those men who really wear a corset today, and not in such, in my opinion, perverted version as Mr. Pearl, these are gentlemen who are addicted to steampunk."

More details:

In turn, Andrei Abolenkin, a well-known fashion analyst, whom I was glad to meet in person, believes: “All the men's bikinis and corsets that we saw in the shows this summer (I wrote about this under the title“Uncles in T-shirts”abolenkin.livejournal. com / 8002.html), for the most part, remain a catwalk offer. Or the fate of those who depend on fashion for self-affirmation or profession. The real need for the overwhelming majority of buyers of men's clothing is that nothing changes and does not raise questions."

In my opinion, Stefano Pilati came up with the most realistic offer in the men's corsets category in his SS 2011 YSL men's collection, where he offers high draped corsets made of printed fabric, reminiscent of the belts of masculine matadors.

However, Andrei Abolenkin believes that: “Pilati, for whom many recognize the impeccable taste and flair, showed variations of the strict urban geisha for YSL. At the podium level, inertia is rocked, and how. These visits should, it seemed, speak of a softening of morals. But more like liquefying the brain. Definitely, the men are out of shape."

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