Poor Miss Lucarelli. Through her oversight, our English teacher became the object of ridicule: once in the sixth grade, we saw her pulling on a corset lace that accidentally appeared from the sleeve of her blouse. It was even more embarrassing than dandruff. The fleeting display of underwear made us laugh colic. By today's standards, this incident hardly deserves a mention. This kind of thing has ceased to be considered shameful even in the days when Madonna was a girl. Indeed, today Miss Lucarelli put on your corset over a blouse, it would make her a role model for a huge number of women who buy underwear not only for their figure correction and comfort, but more and more for the show.
The lingerie details have become "a part of the look," says Stephanie Solomon, fashion director at Bloomingdale's. Corsets, slips, briefs and bras are as extravagant in design and as desirable as platform sandals from Christian Louboutin and handbags from Yves Saint Laurent.
The perception of lingerie as sexy, pointedly exposed detail of a woman's appearance has boosted sales. According to market-monitoring firm NPD, sales of bras, briefs, slips, corsets, and even retro accessories such as garter belts reached $ 10.6 billion for the annual reporting period as of July, up 10% from the previous year. … It is obvious that the goods, which, paradoxically, continue to be called intimate details of the toilet, took the first lines in the list of women's purchases.
"What is really driving this business's growth is that it is now fashionable to showcase your underwear," said Marshall Cohen, NPD's chief retail executive.
For women of all ages, peeking underwear is anything but shame.
"Showing off the intimate details of a toilet is now acceptable to most generations," Cohen said in a survey conducted by NPD last spring, in which 77% of female respondents of all ages said that when publicly displaying details of their underwear, they feel comfortable.
Тенденции делать свое белье достоянием общественности способствует и тот факт, что по своему дизайну и конструкции оно почти неотличимо от купальников и даже вечерних туалетов. Белье – это аксессуар, "который позволяет вам выглядеть лучше и отлично смотрится с вашей одеждой или эффектно просвечивает через нее, – говорит Моника Митро, представитель Victoria`s Secret, фирмы, которая привлекла внимание общественности к пикантному нижнему белью. – Общество делает смелый шаг: нижнее белье фактически стало частью верхней одежды".
Such a view could have become a sensation during the heyday of the new wave, such as Blondie, Cindy Lauper or young Madonna, "when the bra suddenly became part of the sports wardrobe," says David Wolfe, creative director of the Doneger Group, which is engaged in forecasting fashion trends in retail. Today the concept has shifted to the mainstream, added Wolfe. Meanwhile, he admitted that during his recent visit to the Mall of America, which is located near Minneapolis, he was caught off guard by the spectacle of dozens of women, young and not very, who basked in the sun next to the pool in lace bras from Victoria's Secret.
The apparent lightheartedness with which they did so is the product of an invasion of pertinent media imagery, such as television series like Desperate Housewives and Dirt, which show nimble housewives and BDSM-loving journalists sneaking into to the goal, wearing only a bra from clothes; paparazzi shots of Victoria Beckham in a fluorescent pink bra showing through from a striped top; frames in which Ashley Olsen appears in her signature style - in a black bra under a white T-shirt made of the finest fabric.
In either case, showing off intimate lace is no less natural than choosing a matching handbag for a new pair of shoes. Olsen surpassed herself by appearing in the October issue of Harper's Bazar magazine in men's cut shorts, which were visible from under a revealing evening dress.
The fashion of flaunting lingerie originated on the streets of cities such as Los Angeles and London, and in the ready-to-wear collections of the spring 2008 season, it reached its climax. During his show at Christian Dior, John Galliano presented lace nightgowns. Kate and Laura Mallevy, designers of Rodarte, presented to the public a short, Greek-style dress, the neckline of which revealed frivolous slips. Stella McCartney showed a jumpsuit-like model that resembled a pleated set with boys' shorts.
Those looking for a thrill can look up to professional provocateur Marc Jacobs, who has given his models a rebellious touch by including bras and briefs. Undoubtedly, it was aerobatics: the deliberate negligence of the clothes of the models gave this collection a shade of viciousness. But the clothing merchants interpreted this show "for people over 17" as a kind of invitation to improve their financial situation in view of the low fall season.
“The models we saw at the end of the day were crafted with precision and sophistication, every hair and thread was in place,” said Michael Fink, lead fashion designer at Saks Fith Avenue. “Maybe it's time to add some vulgarity to back to real fashion."
Solomon thinks that this fashion carries with it more mystery than vulgarity. "It seems to me that when a woman does not cover her breasts completely, it is not so much aggressively sexual as romantic," she said. Indeed, some are willing to gamble that such dressing is paradoxically devoid of eroticism.
Farid Shenoun, in Hidden Underneath: History of Lingerie (Assouline, 2005), argues that some details of lingerie, losing their original function as a sexy, curvaceous "second skin" outerwear. Think of corsets, which were no longer used for body shaping in the 60s, and revived as a fashion accessory in the 70s and 80s. Stripped of its sexy connotation, the garment "has come into use as a visible piece of wardrobe," writes Shenoun.
This also explains the fact that modest slips, which were once also a symbol of seduction, today cause no more commotion than socks.
The perception of slips as part of evening wear originated in the US West Coast, says Rebecca Epsan, owner of midtown Manhattan lingerie store LPetite Coquette. Buyers are demanding "variations on the old-fashioned sleepsuits that were popular in Hollywood," she said. Tastefully embellished vintage pieces, designed to be worn at night at home or at night at the disco, are an integral part of the collections of premium brands such as Stell McCartney, Myla, VerWang and Roberto Cavalli, which will present their lingerie collections in November at H&M boutique network.
Figleaves.com, a popular online lingerie retailer, sells corsets and lace bras from brands such as Wacoal, Elle Macpherson Intimates, Calvin Klein and Le Mystère. The company also plans to expand its range of "bralets" - a decorative hybrid of a top and a bra. "Women wear them so they can be seen through a pretty chiffon blouse or other sheer fabric," said Yo Jeffrey, a company spokeswoman. "The line between bra and outerwear is blurring."
Victoria's Secret's Mitro recalls how in the late 90s, when a younger generation of female shoppers began to wear regular panties and thongs so that they could be seen over the waistband of jeans, she could not believe that girls really wanted to put their underwear on general review. The company responded by releasing models that were adorned with flowers, lace and Swarovski crystals on the back. "Unexpectedly," says Mitro, "these pieces of jewelry that are placed on the back of the panties are an important part of our design concept."
Other lingerie manufacturers were quick to follow Victoria's Secret's lead. “We are not so much focusing on hidden details as we are trying to use more ruffles and bows. My designs are definitely designed for show,” said Francesca Luther, creative director of Myla, the premium English brand.
Consumers have swallowed the bait. "They talk about linen like a new handbag," says Mitro.
And some people pay three-digit sums for linen. "You don't mind the money for good linen," says 34-year-old HK Dunston, a graphic designer in Manhattan. "It's more important than a good bag."
"If you are well dressed, you feel more confident," she added, and summed up: "If you are wearing something cute, you know you will look good if you have to show it."