Wardrobe. Streak

Wardrobe. Streak
Wardrobe. Streak
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Read in Collezioni Pret-a-porter # 1 (07)

IN THE ARSENAL OF MANY DESIGNERS THERE ARE PATTERNS THAT ARE ABLE TO BE PRESENT IN EVERY SEASON. THE SEA STRIP IS ONE OF THE BIGGEST TRENDS IN THE NEW SEASON

The marine stripe, as we know it, in blue and black and white color combinations, was born in the middle of the 18th century. Then she became a symbol of the sea horizon in the uniform of officers of the British Royal Navy. The path of this print to fashion continued into the 19th century. After the artist Winterhalter painted a portrait of the little English Prince Edward in a sailor suit, a real "striped" boom began in Europe. Especially in such suits they liked to dress children from aristocratic families.

For obvious reasons, the sea strip has always been drawn to the water, and at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, bathing suits became its favorite “place of residence”. Men wore knitted overalls and tights, while women's suits in cross-striped dark colors consisted of a corset and wide knee-length pantaloons, trimmed with ruffles or braid. Later, in the 20s of the last century, the sea strip fell to the taste of young people. Boys and girls wore striped T-shirts with canvas trousers or skirts, complementing the frivolous image with voluminous caps with a wide visor. However, the nautical stripe became a real trend after the legendary Coco Chanel appeared in public in a striped jersey T-shirt, a jersey jacket and a white pleated skirt with striped edging. And, as you know, any of her ideas became revolutionary and instantly conquered women's wardrobes.

The wave of popularity has reached Hollywood - the film stars wore striped things in chic both on the screen and in everyday life. Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren and Twiggy promoted "striped" fashion, which by the 60s began to change slightly under the influence of avant-garde art. Designers supplemented it with a geometric cut of clothing, characteristic of the fashion of those years. In the collections of Yves Saint Laurent, the strip acquired asymmetry and rigid contours, reflecting the motives of the painting of the Dutch abstractionist Piet Mondrian. For André Courrez and Pierre Cardin, she coexisted with clear geometric shapes in combinations of black and white on short A-line dresses, tunics and stockings. Ideas like these were the designers' perceptions of the fashion of the new millennium, which, in fact, turned out to be prophetic.Indeed, at the beginning of our millennium, the fashion for the "striped" 60s came, and the models paraded on the catwalks in those very "futuristic" images. Karl Lagerfeld in his collection for Fendi made multicolored stripes on streamlined white tunics. Miuccia Prada echoed the geometric silhouettes of Courreges' collections, but used stripes in dark brown, terracotta and lilac colors. Slava Zaitsev presented black and white striped stockings, mini dresses and coats. The frequent appearance of stripes in the collections of fashion houses is largely due to the personal sympathies of some designers. Karl Lagerfeld, having come to the Chanel Fashion House, continued to actively use the strip. For the Chanel show for the spring-summer 2007 season, he painted stripes of gray, black and pink in sporty mini dresses and tops with necklines pulled up like a hood.Another eminent admirer of this print is Jean-Paul Gaultier. The fashion rebel has made the vest his calling card and does not miss the opportunity to remind the public of this, always offering at least one striped item in each new collection. So, this season, Gaultier's beloved vest extravagantly goes into a fluffy striped skirt made of feathers. Even the bottle of the famous Le Male perfume from Gaultier has a sailor's "T-shirt".

Sonia Rykiel, the queen of knitwear, has long had a passion for stripes. The designer adheres to the principle of "showing all the best and hiding what is not so good" - she never hides the strip. In her collections, she looks especially catchy and contrasting and is always in the very center of attention. The new collection is no exception - it is simply impossible not to notice the strip on black-and-white and black-beige dresses decorated with draperies and bows.

In the new season, the marine stripe appeared in the collections of even those designers who had not previously been seen in the ranks of her loyal fans. This is not surprising, because as summer approaches, artists turn their thoughts and fantasies to the marine theme. She is embodied in the images of gallant seafarers, young sailors, elegant captains and desperate pirates. Is it possible to imagine a marine style without a strip?

In the AnnSui collection, the stripe accompanies the images of the romantic pirate - striped leggings and arm ruffles, leggings that resemble a torn fishing net, and dresses in a classic black and white striped pattern, bordered with large red and pink flowers, look fantastically picturesque. For Kenzo, Antonio Marras “stripped” the entire collection - wide or narrow, vertical or horizontal, independent or mixed with “peas” and floral prints, monochrome or multi-colored, stripes are present in almost every model in the collection. The young pirate, whose image was recreated in the Jean-Charles de Castelbajac collection, loves the white-blue-red stripe very much and wears it on sports-style T-shirt dresses, voluminous caps and stockings, and chooses thick gold chains with massive pendants as jewelry.At the Yohji Yamamoto show, the blue and blue stripe on long jackets became the only reminder of the approaching nautical season and revived the collection of black and white suits in a laconic functional masculine style. Vivienne Westwood, not intending to give up the role of a provocateur in English fashion, applied a neat narrow monochrome stripe to absolutely shapeless dresses and skirts with quirky folds and draperies. In the Dries Van Noten collection, the stripe pretended to be modest and settled on black and white loose-cut tunic dresses and satin jackets.applied a neat narrow monochrome stripe to absolutely shapeless dresses and skirts with bizarre folds and draperies. In the Dries Van Noten collection, the stripe pretended to be modest and settled on black and white loose-cut tunic dresses and satin jackets.applied a neat narrow monochrome stripe to absolutely shapeless dresses and skirts with bizarre folds and draperies. In the Dries Van Noten collection, the stripe pretended to be modest and settled on black and white loose-cut tunic dresses and satin jackets.

For Mason Martin Margiela, nautical motives did not become defining when using the strip. The Belgian designer, renowned for his ability to transform objects in such a way that they are almost unrecognizable, this time, probably "reworked" the American flag, scattering its component parts - stars and stripes - throughout the collection.

It seems that in the coming season, the strip will burst onto the streets with renewed vigor, challenging imagination and offering to boldly experiment in combinations. Moving away from stereotypes is a surefire way not to get lost in the striped crowd!

Yulia Kazurova

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