In the Small Exhibition Hall, which is located on the lower level of the reconstructed Central Exhibition Hall "Manezh", an amazing exposition "Glory of Russian Fashion", dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the Fashion House and the 50th anniversary of Vyacheslav Zaitsev's creative activity, was unfolded. An impressive red and white display with the name of the exhibition promises that the inquisitive viewer will not so much expect a report on the creative activities of the leader of Russian fashion, but rather an amazing journey into the magical world of the greatest artist and ardent patriot of his country.
Vyacheslav Zaitsev invites you to consider the first group of models, united by the luxury of form, decoration and drama of black: “Models made in the style of different eras were created at the end of the twentieth century. Here you can see things from the collections of 1988-98: "Memories of the Future", "Dedication", "Temptation" and "The Secret of Harmony". The result is a single style, as if done in one fell swoop!"
Approaching a group of red mannequins against the background of a scarlet wall, the master straightens his shoulders, his eyes sparkle with pleasure: what Russian doesn't like red? Models of pret-a-porter de luxe dresses in all shades of the warm color spectrum are the real pride of the author. “On the right is a dress inspired by the image of Vivien Leigh from the movie Gone with the Wind,” explains Vyacheslav Zaitsev. - Then comes the image of Lyudmila Gurchenko from "Carnival Night". Historical theme: pink corset, double skirt and huge stole. The next model of a complex color scheme is made based on the costumes of boyar Russia. Dress and coat from the collection "Secrets of Harmony" have visited many countries. The dress with a quilted corset completes the group. This is a very sophisticated shaping technique available to the amazing masters of the Fashion House. This dress started my passion for corsets”.
Flaming luxury is replaced by gold placers in models from the collection "Russian Seasons in Paris" of the 1988 season. “The set of multi-colored brocade is from the 1996 collection,” notes Zaitsev, straightening the folds of the voluminous skirt. - And these models are created using a dummy method from tulle of different colors. Bright feathers and decorative brushes were brought by me from Paris. This group recalls the work of Paul Poiret. The purple cocoon coat is complemented by a panne velvet dress. The exposition is very decorated with stylish mannequins! Thanks to Alexander Shumsky!"
Boyar Rus inspired the master to create models from French jacquard fabrics, trimmed with tinted fur, where the master plays on the contrast of the heavy material of outerwear and the weightlessness of multilayer tulle skirts. A new reading of the classics is a habitual occupation of a virtuoso designer. A laconic fitted jacket made of shining brocade is trimmed with decorative braid and silk tassels adorned with sparkling bugles. The sun skirt is quilted at the bottom and turns into an unusual architectural structure.
“What a cool fair! - exclaims the couturier. “All Pavlovsky Posad is here!” A real festivities cannot do without a multi-colored carousel! On the stylized exhibition area, among the wooden red horses, there is a group of clothing models made of Pavlovo Posad shawls. It was with them that the triumphant ascent of the Soviet fashion designer to the top of world fame began. “We made an applique on our wool in a cage - we got a wonderful texture,” recalls Vyacheslav Mikhailovich. - Simplicity is the lot of genius. For me, the standard is Dior. He took the sun skirt, pulled off the waist, added a small jacket, and everyone went crazy! Here, it would seem, is the most boring thing - a dressing coat, but it is made of Pavlovo Posad shawls! Here is a sweatshirt, the simplest fit. Pretty, isn't it? And this is a historical bride's dress, in which Alisa Krylova won the title "Mrs. Universe". Under the bright top dress is a luxurious underskirt made of Indian wild silk with lace."
The maestro walks past the green bride who has lost her head: “An interesting solution from the 2004 collection. Here the bride chooses her head. " The bride stands next to the collection of hats and cannot make her choice in any way. Further, Zaitsev's attention switches to an unusual installation. A luminous wall divides the exhibition hall into additional spaces, where photographs of Vyacheslav Zaitsev's models, printed on transparent plastic, are placed on hanging chains. The backlighting of a huge screen, the elusive movement of "floating" photographs, all this creates the effect of lightness and surrealism.
However, the back of the luminous wall turns out to be a white background for a black and white display of embroidered corsets and dresses inlaid with Swarovski crystals. Nearby, in illuminated showcases, there are unique lace-makers from the famous city of Yelets. Professionals of the highest level were able, according to Zaitsev's sketches, to create multicolored lace tops and skirts reminiscent of ornate stained-glass windows in the Art Deco style.
The walk with the master in his fabulous country has come to an end, but you can return to the world of real art again: the exhibition will last until October 28, 2012.
Slav Zaitsev news agency. Photo by MBFWR and Ivan Golov.