In October, there were as many as 3 fashion weeks. I would like to share my impressions of Russian Fashion Week during the fashion show.
One thing can be said - of course, we have a lot of talented, capable and educated fashion designers. But is there any support for the creative potential of Russian designers from patrons and manufacturers?
The organizers of RFW cannot be blamed for this: they opened the doors for us and gave us the opportunity to show themselves both in Russia and abroad.
Beginning talents needed and are in need of such support.
For professional development in such a complex world, in order to be worthy of the attention of the fashion industry, it is imperative, based on the experience of the West, to take into account the positive aspects and bypass the negative ones, while preserving the national culture and traditions. Not to repeat, but to take into account. Developing, step by step, without missing a single step.
I am sure that we are able to amaze the world with our ideas and developments. We must not forget that they have shown a good result in such a short period. And with each new season RFW, in my opinion, is making progress. The proof of everything is the British Day and the participation of designers from many other countries, as well as the participation of Jeremy Scott. But, of course, it is worth talking about some of the shortcomings that more and more often caught my eye, showing an unprofessional approach and not fully thought out display. The general idea of this or that author was not traced. And what source was the author inspired to create the collection? Which look was chosen and for whom was it chosen and how was it designed?
The image means the development of the conceived hairstyle, make-up, costume, costume accessories and shoes, the latter completes the impression formed at the beginning. The proverb "clothes make a man, and shoes make a master" is appropriate here! What is the fulcrum of not only a person, but also a collection. Undoubtedly, things in themselves are interesting both in cut and in color. But this is not enough to showcase a professional display. Of course, this is an overall impression. Unfortunately, the 80-20 rule is true. Twenty percent of the impressions are just perfect, and the rest of the authors need to work.
Some authors lacked the design and development of shoes, costume accessories. Which plays an important role for the overall composition. As a designer of shoes and costume accessories, it was amazing for me to watch the demonstration of those shoes that took place on the RFW catwalk and, accordingly, entered the world arena. Very many designers had absolutely no trace of the composition of the show.
The author's goal is not only to show the novelty of ideas, but also to tell the story that was invented for the image. Show the character of the person who will take this image, respectively, and the story where he will feel like the main character. Show how and how much the same image can change depending on the weather and mood!
The task of the designer is to build a correct story, i.e. along a logical chain. That implies the beginning-introduction, the story itself and the end-epilogue. It seems to me that only in this case the author will be heard by the public.
Enough criticism, we must talk about specific collections, of course, about those that we liked!
In my opinion, the following collections stood out and were remembered:
On the first day:
Lena Skutova, where a bright, familiar image was present.
Max Chernitsov - youthful, street style, sporty style.
Kira Sacarello is a soft contrast of different worlds and concepts, a small, humorous note that accentuates attention and shows its own specific style.
On the second day:
Ilya Makarov is a proof to the Russian manufacturer that the appropriate application of design in an industrial collection is what is needed!
Rustam Iskhakov is a light stellar chic, created for an ordinary woman, giving her luxury and modesty, mystery and openness. And this is what every woman wants!
SUDARYNTO is an exotic motif in the form of a mysterious flower, penetrating into the depths of varieties both in shades and in designs. Connecting a man and a woman together, despite the femininity and aggressiveness. Reminiscent of the ease of the season. The dictating image - I am the ORCHID.
And, of course, Jeremy Scott, according to my ideas and stories, the collection was very bright and modern, for a person without complexes - of this era! But, to my regret, I cannot comment, because, due to some organizational flaws, not many were able to attend the show.
On the third day:
Lo - the wonderful world of two people - an exquisitely intellectual image of a woman and the naked truth of a man, a subtle hint that what is being achieved has become unattainable and vice versa. Female beauty should hide, be mysterious and modest, but this is only from the outside, but inside is still the same feminine and sexy person. And he is good and perfect, by his naturalness, where he and she are free and at ease!
BRITISH DAY - A very special day for this RFW season! The participation of some of the UK's leading fashion designers!
Eley Kishimoto is a progressive contrast that reflects not only in shapes and colors, but also in images. Alternately rolling, from one to the other. High-tech and feminine business in one collection. Stylishly fashionable cut and strictly straight. Light aggression, crazy hairstyles and chic jackets, jackets with stripes and embroidery, combined with short modest skirts, very bright and contrasting shoes that emphasize courage and confidence, slimness and playfulness - one image. Sweet, moderately businesslike and feminine. Straight shapes, fitted modest raincoats, flowing hair, slender bare legs with high heels, sustained attractiveness and at the same time stylishness, which unites two completely different images in character and convictions, but equally wanting to be slim and attractive. The first image shows the second,how not to be afraid of courage and brightness, and the second is certainly to be feminine. So, this story was about how two different images coexist in one person!
Jenny Packam - elegant, luxurious shine, transparent chic, cocktail scent. Hand-embroidered chic Indian fabrics, Brazilian tone and contemporary cut. A collection created for a star woman who knows her merits and is not afraid to talk about it to the whole world. For the one who can afford to always be luxurious and sexy, regardless of time and location. SophiKokosalaki - the spirit of a modern, business woman, with antique frivolity and philosophy. A renowned antique cut, embodied in the perfection of modernity. Elements of decor - ropes, braids, used as a belt and trim, emphasizing the feminine lines of the female body. Union of two times and revival. The union of two personalities into one perfect whole!
В шестой день:
Марина Шулятьева - природа само совершенство, где формы, цвета и композиции, лучше не придумать, остается только грамотно трансформировать. Чувство профессионализма дает возможность грамотно сформулировать дух творческого источника и уместно применить. Коллекция интересная, где все продуманно до мелочей: источник, образ, рассказ о нем, стиль и композиция. А главный показатель, это доказательство того, как умело можно разработать дизайн в промышленной коллекции!
SitkSemsch - хороший прет-а-порте, с чувством стиля и кроя, с использованием ярких и насыщенных цветов, что уместно сезону и темпераменту образа.
Чистова & Эндоурова - яркий, дерзкий образ, жаждущий жить и покорять небо и всех вокруг, своей смелостью. Чрезмерная серьезность, сдержанность уходят на второй план. Будь самим собой, выйди из рамок и покажи себя. Смело заяви миру, "вот она - Я! Я не боюсь жизни и будущего, получаю удовольствие в настоящем!".
On the seventh day: My beloved
A&V is a very original, amazing shoe. Crazy ideas and designs. Great design and manufacturability. Feeling of elite and sensuality - velvet and silk. Modern nostalgia for the old days. A certain comfort in today's real life, with the smell of the old. Insanely sexy bouffant, with bright dots, emphasizing the innocence in each of us, and reminiscent of a heavenly starry night, which is about to end. Unfortunately, I was so carried away by shoes and images that I didn't remember the costumes.
FRESH ART is an aggressively attractive, daring, captivating image. Dominating passion black and bright nuclear contrast! Openwork make up, transparent lace in exposed areas, tight satin, sculpted muscles, and the participation of bright characters adorned the show. In a word, a bright show.
The eighth last day
Avtandil Tskvitinidze - modern taste, modern cut, modern worldview and romantic past in the cocktail of the future. A variety of forms, flowing from one to another, rigidity turning into volume, airiness. The silhouette of the past, light corsets and the novelty of today's cut emphasize femininity and independence - the character of a modern woman!
Larisa Pogoretskaya - a sense of style and taste! A cut created on the body, and for the body! A twisted way of dummy, capable of showing flexibility and shape, the beauty of materials and textures! Competent mix of styles, times and contrasting materials! Depth of transparency and lightness of saturation! In short, a gorgeous collection, just super!
This is what I wanted to see on the RFW catwalk!
So, the week of Russian Fashion has ended, and the next season has closed with it. But the season has opened, heated discussions, criticism, new experiences and a new beginning for the next season, the preparation of the organizers and the creativity of the designers. We wish you good luck!
Text: Lilit Shaumyan.
Photo: www.rwf.ru