It so happened in the last few decades that the military style has become an equal participant in fashion shows. Sometimes he freely takes the world's catwalks, sometimes he huddles as a poor relative, but always to one degree or another he is present at both winter and summer shows. The summer season of 2003 was no exception. But the general mood for optimism and thoughtless gaiety still does not imply too much enthusiasm for the rather harsh details of the military style. Therefore, the leading fashion designers had to work hard to combine incompatible things.
But first, a little history. In principle, the military style can be found in women's clothing of any historical era, because in fact it is just a woman's subconscious desire to wear men's clothing. Well, isn't the warlike attire of the Amazons still the same kind of representation of the military style? But nevertheless, experts attribute the birth of this style to the seventies of the XIX century, when children's corsages in the form of a cuirass came into fashion. They almost literally repeated this accessory of a military man's attire and were terribly uncomfortable to wear.
But the heyday of the military style, of course, was the 20th century. That there are only one sailor suits from Coco Chanel of the First World War. And then off we go - raglan sleeve, safari style, jackets, trench coats and french coats, the so-called nazi style, based on the SS uniform; aviation helmets, so popular in the past winter season; breeches, lace-up boots, camouflage fabric colors … Cargo pants, which have become the number one fashion novelty in the trouser direction, belong to the same category.
It is believed that cargo pants first appeared in America during the rather protracted wars in tropical Korea and Vietnam. The hot, humid climate required a special uniform with a minimum amount of clothing. At the same time, the number of pockets was of particular importance, into which it would be possible to shove everything necessary during the campaign. This is how the wide-leg trousers made of durable cotton with many patch pockets appeared.
Since the middle of the last century, many iconic clothing designers and famous fashion houses have noted themselves in this uncomplicated form of clothing - Jonh Galiano, Gaultier, Gucci, Yamamoto and many others regularly present their variations on the theme of cargo pants. Although last year's models designed by Nicolas Gesquière for the Balenciaga fashion house are considered to be the highest perfection in this sense. It was then that the most famous and stylish women of fashion in the world learned from their own experience what a queue is.
But this summer's season, cargo pants are not just a cult exotic novelty, but a leading hit. In fact, these are just very spacious trousers with many pockets, but the fantasy of famous couturiers has turned them into many interesting options. And now you are presented with the widest choice of such a simple and uncomplicated, seemingly, little thing for your wardrobe.
Moreover, it is the variations on the cargo theme that are offered this summer. Classic trousers in this style can be seen, perhaps, in the Guy Laroche collection - long (even overly long, slouchy) spacious trousers made of thick sand-colored cotton with many patch pockets. A concession to current motives is the low waistline. Close to the classic, but very cropped cargo pants can also be seen at Dior, Marithe + Francois Girbaud.
And then the models begin to acquire more and more decorative elements. Among them, in the first place this season, a variety of straps and straps with metal buckles are welcomed (Jil Sander, Dior), and at Marni such straps to match the main fabric with metal buckles decorate not only pockets, but also go around the leg at the bottom of the legs, and depict besides, a kind of suspenders. It turns out to be curious, funny and stylish.
But most fashion designers don't just limit themselves to pockets or buckled straps. One gets the impression that today on cargo trousers you can show all your most violent imagination and combine incongruous things. For example, on black trousers from Exte, made in the form of jeans, patch pockets of various geometric shapes appear, stitched with white and yellow threads; metal zippers not only on the pockets, but also at the bottom of the legs; long ribbons on the zippers; a slightly pubescent waistline, but to a reasonable limit - at least one does not get the impression that the pants are about to slide off the poor girl.
Jil Sander offers interesting variations. Then he offers a kind of symbiosis of microshorts and cargo trousers, in which the immortal hero of Andrei Mironov from "The Diamond Hand" is recalled. Remember, his trousers still could not turn into elegant shorts "with a slight movement of the hand"? With Jil Sander trousers, you won't have to wait, as cargo trousers are converted into microshorts with the help of the detachable wide straps with metal buckles. And for those who find this option too extravagant, an almost classic cargo model is offered, but … amazingly pure scarlet color.
But the most common model is wide trousers cut to the middle of the calf, gathered at the bottom with an elastic band or drawstring, with patch pockets and straps, ribbons and laces (Isabel Marant, Dice Kayek). Numerous drawstrings with pulled-through cords are also widely used. They can be at the bottom of the legs, on the pockets, on the belt, along the side seam on the trousers. The colors can be very diverse, but still quite muted - olive, khaki, pearl greenish, sandy, brown.
It is obvious that modern cargo pants are versatile, comfortable, very comfortable and practical type of clothing. When executed in appropriate expensive and high-quality woven fabrics, they can even become part of business attire; the use of thin and light natural fabrics makes them ideal for the beach; denser cotton, linen fabrics allow you to go on any hike in such pants, reliably protecting your legs from any troubles. But there is only one problem that remains almost insurmountable - there are very few female figures in the world for which cargo pants would ideally fit. The best option is a tall, thin-legged teenage girl. But, alas, from this age we grow up so quickly …
Galina YUDAKHINA.
Especially for InterModa. RU.