It just so happens that the fascination with black is usually accompanied by the tendency of world fashion houses to such a dark period of human history, which is known to us as Gothic. All sorts of black princesses, witches, sorceresses, vampirellas and other evil spirits that distinguished Gothic mythology immediately appear in the most famous collections. However, this season in this sense can be considered a happy exception.
No, and today there are images on the world catwalks that seem to be a bad copy of the heroine of the "black" comedy about the Adams family. But nevertheless, in the fall-winter / 2003-2004 season, a hobby for a different style is frankly read. The Middle Ages reign here. Although this can be explained, perhaps, not by the fact that clothing designers are interested in those very distant centuries, but rather by quoting and retelling the tendencies of the eighties that are much closer to us in the 20th century. After all, it was then that the images of the Middle Ages became almost the most popular.
True, there may be one more - perhaps more controversial, but still a valid explanation for such a craze. After all, it is quite obvious that in the coming season, many clothing designers are trying to play the men's card in a new way in women's clothing. Not unisex, sexlessness, but rather bisexuality, vivid eroticism of a woman dressed in a man's suit - this is what attracts thread and needle masters. And one of the brightest ladies in a man's suit (and, perhaps, one of the very first, which is so widely known in history) is Joan of Arc, who embodied femininity, fragility, masculine strength, domination, energy. In general, everything that modern women would like to demonstrate.
Motives of the Middle Ages (from direct quotations of famous art paintings and images to the use of individual subtle nuances of decoration) can be found today in many collections. In that era long gone from us, very different artists of the female image found a bright source of inspiration - Salvatore Ferragamo, Alexander MacQueen, Paco Rabanne, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, EmmCook, Preen, Marc Jacobs and many others. Moreover, some of them have always been distinguished by their love for extravagant chain mail made of super-technological materials (like Paco Rabanne), while others, until today, were still inclined to a different style (for example, Louis Vuitton), but still could not resist the charm of the era.
Perhaps, this passion manifested itself to the greatest extent in several collections. For example, Byblos presented not only the most real knightly chain mail made of specially processed thinnest metal plates, but also their fabric (so to speak) variations. Indeed, in the Middle Ages, not everyone could afford metal armor. Many wore something similar made of several layers of leather and dense fabric. This did not save from death, but softened to some extent the cruelty of the blows. So Byblos presented a kind of chain mail made of black leather and dense black fabric, under which tops and blouses made of translucent black chiffon are very sexy.
Разнообразные вариации на тему Средневековья составляют существенную часть коллекции от Louis Vuitton, которые обычно отличаются подчеркнутой женственностью и акцентированной элегантностью. Кстати, эти качества дизайнеры одежды от этого Дома моды постарались сохранить даже в представленных на суд взыскательной публики средневековых кольчугах. Конечно, чистого металла в стиле Paco Rabanne или Byblos мы здесь не увидим. Однако достаточно любопытно смотрятся "доспехи" из черной и белой кожи или плотной шерсти с обилием крупных декоративных металлических заклепок.
In the same collection (as, incidentally, in Balenciaga, Helmut Lang, Lanvin, Preen), a rather curious form of presentation is used. Dresses and jackets made of tweed, thick wool, knitted jersey repeat in their shape: medieval armor with shields covering the shoulders, chest, elbows, back. And given the fact that all this is done in calm brown, terracotta, dark gray or black colors, this type of clothing is quite acceptable in a business setting and can replace the traditional set of jacket and skirt.
Even if some couturiers did not venture to directly cite medieval armor in glamorous women's toilets, they played this exotic theme in full in accessories and trimmings. For example, at Hussein Chalayan, you can see something between a very wide belt and a cropped corset, which is only part of such medieval armor. Givenchy presented a very wide belt woven from several rows of metal rings. The set comes with the same kind of bracelets. You don't even need to have excessive imagination to see a paraphrase of knightly armor here too.
However, the medieval theme in the autumn-winter collections is by no means limited to the rehash of men's armor and chain mail. Women's toilets of that time are interesting in themselves. And not only Jeanne d'Arc attracted male attention, but also young ladies, for whom the knights fought in tournaments and went on crusades.
So the Middle Ages performed by the couturier of the XXI century is neither gloomy, nor bloody, nor warlike. Rather, it is shown to be very romantic, glamorous, a little ironic. And Ferre presents us leather breeches and caftans of commoners with lush laces and ruffles of Snow White blouses of the Beautiful Lady. And Salvatore Ferragamo replaces the traditional cloak with a knight's cape made of woven or tapestry.
Add to this the slightly caricatured huge stiff collars of royal dresses from Givenchy, metal inserts on a very revealing neckline from Roland Mouret, leather boots with metal rivets and belts from Baldinini, numerous variations of completely medieval jackboots, large jewelry made of artificially "aged" silver with knight's crosses and coats of arms from Ofazu - and the curious appearance of a long forgotten era will come to life in front of you, giving scope to your own imagination.
Especially for InterModa. RU